SIZE
is a matter of personal opinion but the hutch should be large
enough to give an acceptable quality of life especially during
the winter months when the guinea pigs cannot go out in a
garden run. Bearing in mind that guinea pigs are happiest
when kept in groups of two or more, most readily available
commercial cages are not large enough to house a pair of pigs.
The guideline is 2 square feet per guinea pig, so for a pair
you would need 4 square feet. Bear in mind that this guideline
is for a minimum area - if you can give more then all the
better! If the cage is large then provide a smaller box inside
it to snuggle into at night for warmth. Unlike rabbits guinea
pigs do not sit up, so height need not be too high.
BEDDING: Lay several
sheets of newspaper on the floor of the hutch to soak up excess
urine, and cover this with a thick carpet of good quality
wood shavings. Do not use sawdust in cages as this is too
fine and gets into their lungs causing respiratory problems.
A 4" high litter board to contain bedding will save a
lot of sweeping up! A dense layer of hay will help to provide
a warm and comfortable sleeping quarters and will also supplement
the cavy's diet. Be sure to use hay and not straw as the latter
is too sharp and can damage the piggy's eyes as he runs through
it. Check also that there are no sharp stalks or thorns in
the hay.
To help keep your pets healthy and happy, a regular cleaning
routine is needed. Empty and thoroughly clean out the hutch
or cage once a week. Clean it with a suitable disinfectant
(ask at your petshop), rinse and dry thoroughly before returning
the pigs. Renew bedding material. Remove wet bedding and
any stale food and droppings daily. Check that the
hay does not go mouldy, as this can lead to respiratory
problems.
OUTDOOR
HUTCHES: Hutches should be both damp-proof and draught-proof,
especially if your guinea pigs are to be kept outside. Housing
in a shed or similar outhouse is preferred, if you keep
them outside then protection from the elements is a real
consideration and a bedroom compartment is necessary.
The hutch should be well ventilated and big enough not to
encourage damp conditions through condensation. The main hutch
front should be covered with small gauge wire netting or twilled
to prevent vermin from entering and spreading disease.If you
buy a ready made outside hutch check that the roof slopes
from front to back and that it has a good overhang front and
back, otherwise rain driving in through the mesh or a damp
back wall will cause illness. The roof should be covered with
roofing ashphalt. Check regularly that the roofing felt is
in good condition and that doors are secure. Its a good idea
to add locks in order to deter the most dexterous foxes.Try
to position the hutch so that the wind and rain aren't blowing
straight in through the mesh in the winter and so its not
baking in the midday sun during the summer.
OUTDOOR
RUNS: Most pet stores stock a selection of fold-away
outdoor runs for guinea pigs which are similar in design to
those for rabbits, but again needn't be so tall. These are
ideal for guinea pigs who live indoors or in hutches which
do not have an attached run, allowing them time during good
weather to enjoy grazing on the lawn. Check when buying that
you can reach right into the run to pick your guinea pig up
as they can be very difficult to catch when they have enough
room to scamper away!Position in a shady spot and put some
boxes or pieces of drainpipe in the run so that they can hide
or take shelter. Fresh drinking water should always be available
too.Don't place the run out on wet grass after a rain shower
and avoid using lawn that has recently been treated with weed
killer. Take a look at our Feeding
page to see which common plants (such as buttercups) may be
dangerous to your pigs and make sure the lawn is free of these.It
is not a good idea to leave guinea pigs unattended in their
runs during the day whilst you go shopping or to work or left
outdoors overnight - it may rain and your pigs will need to
be taken indoors. At worse, given enough time a clever fox
may dig under the run and find his way in! Only put pigs in
the run when you are at home and around enough to keep an
eye on things.
INDOOR
CAGES: There are a wide range of purpose built cages suitable
for housing guinea pigs indoors available from petstores,
such as the one in the picture on the right.. Materials used
vary as much as their design.Guinea pig owners however are
a very inventive crowd and many day-to-day household items
can be adapted to make your own customised cages and runs...
we've seen paddling pools, kiddies' playpens, bed frames,
fireguards and metal crates all employed to good effect!Growing
in popularity at the moment is the use of cube shelving and
Correx (known as Coroplast in North America). Building your
own cages and runs from these materials is cheap and quite
simple. It allows you complete control over the design and
can easily be altered and added to should your cavy population
grow. If you're interested in finding out more about housing
your guinea pigs using cubes, we recommend a visit to Cavy
Cages
website where you'll find lots of advice and ideas.
BLOCK
HOUSING: Cage blocks are best if you have a large number
of guinea pigs, or if you breed your pigs, keeping them
in a garden shed. Again, there are a large number of designs
and sizes. The picture on the left shows a 3-tier cage built
by Avondale Animal Housing who have supplied us with many
of the cages used for our Comfy Cavies boarding service.
Rabbits
and Guinea Pigs Together?
Although
many people believe that rabbits and guinea pigs make
good housemates - indeed many pet shops will often
sell them in pairs - it is simply not safe to house
these animals together for a number of reasons:
- Guinea
pigs and rabbits eat different foods. Guinea pigs
must not eat prepared mixes for rabbits that contain
anti-coccidiostat (ACS). This additive is needed
by rabbits to control disease, but it will slowly
poison guinea pigs!
- Guinea
pigs need a regular supply of vitamin C - obtained
from fresh green vegetables. This is unhealthy
for rabbits as too much makes them scour.
- Guinea
pigs are very clean animals and fuss about their
grooming as do cats. Rabbits have a habit of spraying
(like skunks!) an constantly trying to dodge a
shower of foul smelling liquid must be extremely
stressful for any animal so fussy about cleanliness!
- Most
importantly is the risk of injury to the guinea
pig. No matter how tame and placid the rabbit,
they are given to sudden bursts of energy during
which they may dash around their cage and kick
out with their back legs... often causing injury
and death for any poor cavies that are unable
to get out of their way.
|
|